How Have I Offended You? Let Me Count the Ways...

The thing about new cultures is that everything you've learned in the past about social interactions, you now have to question. Is there a correct way to eat? (Of course, the first thing I worry about.) Is there a proper way to speak to people? Is there a proper way to dress? What kind of work is expected of you? And the thing is, usually you have to figure these out by trial and error. And even then, you may still be doing it wrong and no one will tell you you're being offensive, ergo making yourself more offensive!

#1. I don't greet people in enough different ways. When greeting people in Korr, you ask how they slept/how their day has been, if they have peace, where they're going, where they're coming from, what clan they are from, etc. There's no such thing as plain "Hello." Everyone knows I'm the new girl in town and that I don't know the language yet, but I still feel as if there's an awkward pause whenever it's my turn to ask another question.

#2. Respect in this country, especially this part of the country, is HUGE. Hierarchies within Rendille culture are well protected and maintained. As a result, there are very specific titles for a warrior vs. an old man vs. a young unmarried woman, etc. Birth order is strongly part of one's identity, and there are always particular roles for women, that men would never perform, and visa versa. Both my roommate Alicia and I have been completely inappropriate in the ways we've been addressing people. We've been forgetting to call our day guard "MBOGO Bruce" (a young man), and we've accidentally been calling the church pastors merely by their first names and not with the respectful "Pastor" at the beginning.

#3. Women don't wear skirts shorter than mid shin, and they NEVER wear shorts. Oopsy daisy. I wear shorts to bed, which is perfectly reasonable considering the heat, however I shouldn't be seen outside the bedroom with such clothing (or lack there-of.) So of course, on my first morning here, I wandered out to our (safely) COVERED and GATED outhouse, and who should be standing just down the veranda, but Bruce who gave me a shocked look that almost said "Hussy." Since then, the house help has caught me at least twice running around in those same scandalous shorts.

#4. People don't "exercise" here as it's usually too hot, there's plenty of other things keeping them busy, and that precious energy should be stored and not wasted on ridiculous flailings of the body. But I'm blessed enough to be well fed, and currently on break from work. So, two days ago I started doing tiny laps in my yard and step aerobics on the back porch. It was fine the first day, as it was raining so hard outside, none of the locals were wandering about. However, yesterday as I was in minute 7 of my step routine, three little boys started loitering by my fence, mouths slightly open, watching this crazy white girl bounce up and down. I guess it's not "offensive" per say, but it's just weird enough to the Rendille that they will probably circulate this story and starting hopping on one leg whenever I come around.

And so... this is part of my life in Korr; navigating the treacherous social waters of a northern Kenyan desert tribe. But I guess I don't mind all that much, as there is much grace to be found here.
And most of the time, (and I say "most"), I'm perfectly safe from Rendille social faux paus at home with Alicia. Included are some pictures of the house. Our living room, the netted master bed where Alicia and I sleep, our resident kitty getting stuck in the attic, and the scene of a fashion crime: our outhouse.